Mountain

The Sardinian mountains go against all the rules: they are low, with the highest peaks on the Gennargentu massif not exceeding 1834 metres. Yet if you were to ask for a description of Nuoro, many would describe the area as being mountainous. It is also a Blue Zone, with long life expectancy for its inhabitants.

Much of the territory – excluding the coasts backdropped by stunning white cliffs – is characterised by limestone massifs and hills alternating with granite and basaltic plateaus. The geological nature of the rocks has resulted in a landscape of evocative beauty, ranging from the schist rock of the Gennargentu to the limestone towers of the Barbagia di Belvì. Then there is the National Park of the Bay of Orosei and Gennargentu that safeguards Sardinia’s largest mountain right down to the sea.

The Gennargentu branches off to form the Supramonte mountain range comprised of limestone plateaus that extend into the territories of the Oliena, Orgosolo, Urzulei and Baunei municipalities. The highest peak is Monte Corrasi in Oliena (at 1463 metres) whilst the Correboi Pass (at 1235 metres) separating Barbagia and Ogliastra offers the highest passageway on the island.

Over millennia, the Supramonte’s karst plateaus have been eroded by rivers that comprise a rich subsurface hydrology, forming beautiful grottos such as that of Ispinigoil in Dorgali along with numerous canyons also known as ‘codule’, with the Gorropu considered to be Italy’s deepest. This process has also resulted in the stupendous karst springs of Su Gologone. The Supramonte is also home to the largest sinkhole in Sardinia, the Su Suercone, which extends between the municipalities of Oliena and Orgosolo, at some 900 metres above sea level. 

Ogliastra’s rocky territory of Dolomite origin forms the characteristic ‘tacchi’ (towering rock outcrops) within which a karst system is formed, creating incredible grottos such as that of Su Marmuri in Ulassai, amongst the most majestic in Europe. In Lanusei, where Monte Armidda rises up to 1200 metres, is the important Ferdinando Caliumi astronomical observatory.  

Another notable mountain is the Monte Albo in Baronia, a UNESCO Man and the Biosphere (MAB) Reserve consisting of a limestone massif between the municipalities of Lula, Siniscola and Lodè. It is formed by a 13-kilometre ridgeline whose average height is above 1000 metres. The highest points are the two peaks of Punta Turuddò and Punta Catirina, both reaching 1127 metres. The massif also safeguards the 200-metre-long cave of Janna Manna. An offshoot of Montalbo is the Tuttavista, which descends into the municipality of Galtellì. Rising up over more than a thousand metres are the Punta Palai in the Marghin region, Monte Santupadre in Bortigali and the Monte Gonare between Sarule and Orani, whilst just shy of this hight are Monte Ortobene, the Nuorese mountain, as granite and schistose heights that safeguard ancient traditions and local rituals. 

The mountains of Eastern Sardinia were actually frequented by man in ancient times, so much so that there is a plethora of archaeological sites such as the Nuragic village of Tiscali and Domus de Janas that date back to the Neolithic era.

The best way to explore the area is step-by-step along its pathways, in the company of an expert guide. This is the perfect destination for lovers of outdoor sports such as trekking, Nordic walking, rock climbing, canyoning, rafting, mountaineering, caving and mountain biking. 

Along the trails, walkers can quench their thirst from the super-fresh springs, admire the beauty of rare blooms and towering trees, as well as savour the vistas from sensational observation points, with distinctive lookouts overlooking a breath-taking landscape that extends out over the sea.      

The pathways lead along the routes of ancient trades that were conducted in these parts and which partially modified the geography of the locations, such as the coal merchants and shepherds with their transhumances. The traces of their passage offer a pleasant distraction after extensive trekking. These evocative Cuiles on the Supramonte – known as barraccos in Ogliastra and Pinnettos in Montalbo – are ancient refuges for sheep, built as small abodes for the solitary shepherd.